One of the things that was most impactful to me on this trip was the night climb up Mt. Sinai. We'd crossed the day before from Aqaba, Jordan to Nuweiba <sp?>, Egypt. That's another story entirely that I'll write about later...but after the crossing we drove an hour or two into Egypt and ended up at a small hotel at the base of the mountain. It was quite cool because the little one-room units were made out of stone quite similar to the mountains, so if you weren't looking super careful the whole complex would blend right in.
We climbed a couple flights of stairs to the restaurant which was on a traditional site that escapes me, but I think it had something to do with where the people gathered while waiting for Moses. Anyhow, we had a quick dinner then tromped off to bed quite early since we had a 1a wake-up call.
When the call came my aunt and I dragged ourselves out of bed and met the other 10 or so hearty souls on the bus for a quick drive. We stopped for a few minutes at a little coffee shop type establishment for a shot of caffeine to go, then drove up to the main tourist parking lot. It was a little after two when we started walking and I was surprised at the number of buses and people there already.
I should probably just get this over with, the part where I admit I'm not a morning person and, when the group started race-walking from get-go, my mood turned foul fairly quickly. Almost immediately I was way in back with a dark cloud over my head, muttering to myself and not at all entering into the supposed spiritual experience.
After maybe 15 minutes racing through the dark we came to St. Katherine's Monastery and the place where folks could catch a camel ride if they wanted. My mom and several others got rides immediately and about 15 minutes up the hill my dad hitched a ride as well. I saw mom a couple times after that, gliding along above the dirt and fray. I could hear her singing every so often -- it was just lovely.
I'm not sure when my stubborn streak first reared it's ugly head, but pretty early on I decided I was going to make it on my own. My resolve weakened considerably every switchback as I looked up and saw sporadic flashlights shining a long, long way up. Pretty quickly I realized that there had been some sort of misunderstanding about how far this trek would be. We'd been told 1.3 miles or about 600 steps which I thought would be no problem since we had four hours til sunup and I'd just done 900 or so steps in addition to several miles in Petra a couple days before.
There was a full moon out and it was actually quite bright as we hiked up and up and up. Occasionally we'd walk with the mountain between us and the moon and at those points it was almost pitch dark. It wasn't until later that I realized there were almost 1,000 people on the trail because most of the time I was walking with only a couple people in my vicinity.
Most of the hike was sort of other-worldly. We had to duck to the side of the trail for camels to pass fairly regularly and Bedouins would appear out of the darkness and try to tempt me into purchasing a camel ride. Every so often a few Nigerians would materialize out of the darkness, heading back down saying things like "too far!" or "too long!" To add to the weirdness, every quarter mile or so there was a "coffee shop" tent offering various drinks and snack items while you sat to catch your breath.
The path was so switch-backy that I couldn't see very far ahead and I had no idea how much further there was to go, which made it all the more difficult to keep plodding along. One time I looked up and the switchback was just perfect -- I could see three people riding on camels high above me, exactly in front of the moon. It was so beautiful and, I don't know, biblical maybe, that it brought tears to my eyes.
Maybe an hour into the hike I was gasping for air when my dad came loping up and offered to carry my increasingly heavy backpack. I gladly tossed it up and walked about five steps before his Bedouin guide demanded an additional five dollars to have the camel carry the bag. I was so miffed I took it back and vowed not to give the man a dime.
Just then another Bedouin appeared at my right hand and started asking whether I wanted a camel. Unlike the forty others who'd offered and given up after one or two no's, this man walked beside me for several switchbacks. I became increasingly discouraged as he whispered things in my ear like "It's too far. You can't make it. It's two more hours to hike to the top. You need a camel. You'll never make it."
After listening to this litany for awhile my discouragement started morphing into amazement. What a priviledge to experience such a realistic picture of the spiritual battles we go through in life! As we try to climb to the top of the mountain, finish the race, and etc., the devil walks alongside whispering defeat at every step. It was quite empowering actually. I told the guy to buzz off and soared ahead of him.
It would be a great story if I could say from that point on I ran at break-neck speed up the hill, but that would be a big fat lie. :p That hike was one of the hardest things I've ever done physically. Even harder, in a different way, than running a marathon a few years back. I think a big part of the problem was totally skewed expectations that it was going to be a nice jaunt in the wilderness, plus the deadline of trying to beat sunrise to the top.
However, after almost three hours I made it -- turned out the 1.3 miles was straight up! We climbed nearly 5,000 feet into the air, churning through about a 5-mile path. The last hour was basically climbing straight up stone "stairs," mostly laid by one monk as a vow to God.
Much to my surprise, I arrived before the sunrise and sat in the lee of a rock with a couple other gals, huddled together to ward of freezing to death while the wind did a number on our sweaty selves. We sang a few songs and watched the light begin to break across an entirely amazing mountain range.
In my head I'd always thought of Mt. Sinai as set apart, the only mountain around. It's actually just the highest point in a huge range of beautiful, stony, forbidding neighbors and the sun breaking against them was breathtaking.
The hike back down in the light was no cake-walk, but at least it was downhill. And with almost every step I was thanking God for the experience and for the fact that I'd climbed in the dark ---- I didn't know just how far I had left to go. I'm pretty sure I would have folded from discouragement if I'd been able to look up and see how many steps were left ahead of me when I was working so hard for each one. There's something biblical there as well I imagine.

If I find myself in Egypt again I think I might climb once more. It was an amazing experience I hope many of you will be able to participate in at least once in your life.